May 3, 2004
Contact: Kelly Bourdeau, 287-7533
For Immediate Release
THIS SUMMER TAKE YOUR LAWN TO A WHOLE NEW HEIGHT
Expectations for lush lawns are running high this time of year. But, before you dive into the battle of the best lawn on your street, Gary Fish, an environmental specialist with the Board of Pesticides Control, says to consider lowering your expectations of lawn perfection and raising your lawn mower blade height instead.
"It's all about the lawn this time of year," says Fish. "It's radical for a lot of people to embrace the idea of a less than perfect lawn. But, ecologically conscious Mainers have already caught on to the benefits, like cleaner Maine waters and more time to enjoy our short summer. We're hoping this season more people realize a healthy lawn is a nobler expectation."
If you're ready to practice good "lawn etiquette" for all your neighbors to see, here are some springtime tasks to get you "growing" in the right direction:
A MINDFUL MOWER. Raise the mower blade to three inches high.
Root growth is only as deep as the grass blade is high.
Mowing higher promotes root growth, reduces weeds by 50 to 80 percent, helps the lawn through dry periods and discourages insects. A credit card is a handy mowing gauge-it's a little over three inches in length.
CUT TO THE CHASE. Keep mower blades sharp to prevent water loss and fungal disease. Do the finger test. If it doesn't crease your finger when you press on the blade, it's not sharp enough.
GIVE YOUR LAWN A GOOD BRUSH. Winter snows and fungi like snow mold may mat together grass blades, slowing down spring growth and allowing weed seeds to germinate. A light raking will comb out those mats and wake up the grass faster.
A SOIL TEST IS YOUR LAWN'S BEST FRIEND. For $10 and a box of your dirt, you can find out your soil's secrets. This simple test analyzes fertility, pH and lets you know if adjustments are needed. Maine soils are typically too acid for lawn grass. If your test confirms this, sweeten the soil with pelletized limestone. Test kits are available from your local Cooperative Extension and Soil & Water Conservation Districts.
RE-SEED BARE OR THIN AREAS WITH THE RIGHT GRASS. Because no turf grass is native to Maine, choose a grass species most adapted to our northern climate. Try a mix that demands less mowing and chemicals: 60-100% fine or tall fescues, 10-20% perennial ryegrass and 10-20% KenBlue (a variety of Kentucky bluegrass that requires less fertilizer). A number of Maine lawn, garden or farm stores carry "low input" grass varieties. Inquire!
FERTILIZE, BUT SKIP THE PHOSPHOROUS. Phosphorous is rarely essential for established Maine lawns. Using phosphorous-free fertilizer helps keep our waters clear of algae. Skip fertilizing altogether in the spring if your lawn looked good after winter or if you fertilized in the fall. Hold off until August to late November-the best time to improve root growth. Also, use a fertilizer that has water soluble , slow release or controlled release printed on the package. Otherwise, your fertilizer is washing away with the rain, along with your money.
DON'T MAKE A MOUNTAIN OUT OF A MOLE HLL. Moles visit many Maine lawns over the winter months. To reduce the long-term damage, tamp down the tunnels they make and rake out any soil they bring up. If the tunnels re-appear, you may want to invest in harpoon traps and get ready to "think like a mole." Upside: moles are not all that bad. They aerate the soil and eat damaging insects.
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The Maine Board of Pesticides Control offers the free pamphlet "The How-to Guide: Six Steps to Growing a Healthy Lawn." Call 207-287-2731 or e-mail pesticides@maine.gov for a copy. Online version is available at www.thinkfirstspraylast.org/bayscaper.
Other web site resources: www.themoleman.com, www.umext.maine.edu, me.nacdnet.org
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